Dupli-color can be ordered to precisely match the shade list of your vehicle, and each spray is formulated to provide the best finish possible, down to the precise year your car was made. When you order it, you order based on the existing paint job. It takes about three cans to do the underside of a short bed truck. Dupli-Color is a premium automotive clear coat, and it shows. It collects dirt over time but a quick blast with the pressure washer and the dirt goes and the fluid film mostly stays. It does not dry out like the Rust Converter. The patina looks really cool, but a fresh respray in the factory color will really liven it up. This stuff is a spray film that coats and soaks into your metal to form a protective petroleum-based film. I dont think you can go wrong in either way with this car. * Finally, if you want to coat the frame rails and suspension, Fluid Film is a good solution. After it soaks in a bit, rub as much as much as possible off the paint as you can with paper shop towels. * At this point you can use boiled linseed oil, not straight linseed oil, to rub a heavy coat into the exposed rust and a thin coat on the rest of the truck. This product stops rust on iron and steel surfaces and converts it into a black coating that seals out moisture and protects against future corrosion. * Rust Converter is perfect for under the wheel wells and cab area. This product is easily available at the grocery store. Using some wax will also slow down the rust but retain the shiny metal look.* After a solid wash, throw on some rubber gloves and start scrubbing the body panels with CLR (Calcium Lime Rust) and green Scotch-Brite pad. It's just a matter of regularly polishing the metal to prevent it from rusting. I've done it on my own classic cars that had thin paint. Here's the deal, if you want to maintain the ORIGINAL PATINA then you can rub that rust off and make the metal shiny and the paint pretty and then by regular polishing and waxing you can keep the paint looking great and the metal looking shiny. It’s considerably faster and easier to flood a car with bondo, sand it back to something recognizable, throw color and 1 of clear on and have a show car. The foam and the compound will gently abrade off the rust. 3.) Patina and bare-metal cars can be a way to show either what a clean, preserved example you found, or demonstrate your craftsmanship. I'd also consider buffing the rusted areas by machine, like by using a foam cutting pad with a compound. Put most of your focus on the rusty portions as you don't want to rub and rub and rub on the painted areas needlessly as the paint will restore faster than the rusted metal will clean up. Colore e luce nella statuaria antica in bronzo. Il ruolo della luce nella statuaria antica in bronzo. Mikes comments: “I went ahead and used the #7 liberally with a terrycloth wash cloth and a lot of elbow grease and let the oils in the #7 lubricate the rubbing process and let the nap of the terrycloth be my abrasive and with enough rubbing you can remove the rust and make the steel that is now exposed with no paint SHINY and restore the color to what's left of the paint. Le patine ‘naturali’ greche e le patine artificiali romane sui grandi bronzi.Also what wax is recommended to use in this type of application? I’m thinking the rusted areas would be tough to wax and not leave a residue of some sortĪnother mention of buffing/polishing the rust spots:.How and with what would you buff the steel sections?.Would you compound and polish with a machine or by hand?.Mike mentions his process taken before on these paint types has been : “When I've buffed rigs like this out I compound them and polish and wax the good paint and then buff the steel sections enough to make them shiny and then keep on buffing it once in a while and waxing it to prevent rust.” 'I am so tired of patina.' 'Its gotta be close to dying.' 'Were gonna see nicely painted cars any day now.This is the only thread on the forum that addresses my question with a similar situation.Would buff/polishing by hand be safest method? Or could I use the DA carefully with this method?.Again – the paint on this mustang was pretty consistent all over with no large rust areas.All the products used on this car would be would I would use on the truck if going this route.But this paint is uniform and without rust in areas, so I know it would work on the painted parts but not sure effects on the rust and primer areas.Vinyl wrapping lasts several years before needing a replacement, so you can conserve your cars paint for years without spending too much money. The vinyl acts as a protective layer, shielding your precious paint job from salt, rocks and even the suns harmful UV rays. Great breakdown on precleaning the paint Vinyl film can preserve your cars exterior.I’ll link each thread and my thoughts as well: Now to do that I have been doing my research but honestly just collecting more and more data without a plan of implementation for my scenario As Mike states - I want to take what paint I have left to the Max :
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